Stiff steering

[RonParticipant]

Hi everyone.  I have just fitted a replacement steering rack supplied through the club along with new ball joints on the track rod ends.  The steering now appears rather stiff even when jacked up.  There is no binding in the steering column/tube.  The ball joint adjusters were wound up to the required torque of 8kgm (57.5ftlbs) then backed off one eighth of a turn.  This did leave the ball joints very stiff and almost unmovable by hand.  Not sure if this is normal as the old ones were beyond their sell by date.

If anyone has any suggestions they will be gratefully received.  Thanks.  Ron

[BernieParticipant]

Ron,

I would disconnect the track rods at the hubs to determine how easily each hub swivels because it sounds as if the problem is there rather than in the steering column and rack mechanism.

If one or both is at all stiff it is not correctly assembled and should be dismantled to check the presence of the spacer ring(s) and condition of all the components.

Which operation in the manual were you following when you “wound up” the “ball joint adjusters”?  Are you referring to the track rod outer ends.  If  they are stiff you should dismantle them to clean and repack with new grease then refit the cup so that they are not loose but can still be manipulated by hand.

B….

[Philippe AllisonParticipant]

Hi Ron,

Just a short addition to Bernie’s excellent diagnostic process. You say the steering is still stiff when the car is jacked up, is the car supported on axel stand close to the hubs or is it jacked from the cradle and the arms hanging. With the suspension hanging under its own weight the steering will be stiff, lower arms on axel stands near the hubs should be nice and light and no stiff spots going from lock to lock.

Good luck Philippe.

 

[RonParticipant]

Thanks Bernie and Phillipe.  In answer, yes I did jack from the cradle with the wheels hanging down, will remedy that as suggested and test again.  And it was track rod ends, where the castellated nuts are, that were tightened up to the stated torque in the manual, these were new items again from club spares and were fitted with fresh grease.  However I’ll disconnect them and see if they have loosened up after my recent test drive.  If not any further views on how far to back off the nut, currently it’s at 1/8 of a turn. Good job it’s sunny!!

Regards.

Ron

[BernieParticipant]

Ron,

I now understand you  are referring to manual operation 125/20,  Dwg 64, fig.4., “Prepare track rod ends”.

If the track rod ends are too tight, having fitted new components and followed the manual, I wonder if the bellville washers are in good condition (if not replaced) and the assembly has been correctly shimmed – see operation 123/10.

Good luck.

B….

[RonParticipant]

Thanks Bernie, I’ve now released the track rods and the steering rack functions smoothly and easily, however, the nearside(L) swivel is extremely stiff and very difficult to move even with the wheel on as a longer lever.  This despite recent removal to fit new drive shafts, hmm maybe a clue there. Offside (R) is much freer, its possible to move the swivel by hand with the wheel off holding just the drum.  So looks like a dismantling of the L swivel is called for: now, where are those tools!

Regards.

Ron

[BernieParticipant]

Ron,

Back to my first reply.  If you did not change any components in the swivel the implication is that something is misplaced or has become misaligned.

<span style=”line-height: 1.5;”>Things to check:</span>

<span style=”line-height: 1.5;”>Correct location/seating of the upper cup</span>

<span style=”line-height: 1.5;”>The spring is not fouling</span>

The cup spacer ring is present – and correct thickness.  Check the assembly by clamping the components up tight on the bench.  The ball should be free to turn inside when the cups and spacer are all firmly clamped together.

It is important that the ball, cups and spacer are clamped tightly together to prevent the cups from turning within the hub.  If the components  are in <span style=”line-height: 1.5;”>good condition it should not be possible to overtighten them.  If the spacer thickness has ever been reduced too much (in an attempt to take up wear), it is then possible to overtighten the assembly when inserting the shims below the lower cup.   If the spacer thickness is the problem you will need to place appropriate shim(s) between the lower cup and the spacer.  </span>

Furthermore, if you have the replacement “adjustable” bottom cover plates, designed to eliminate the shimming operation, it is very easy to trap the ball between the cups if the spacer is too thin.

Not wishing to teach anybody to suck eggs so I hope this helps.

B….

 

 

 

[RonParticipant]

Thanks Bernie, no question of teaching grandma here!  Will proceed with caution and care and follow advice.  Ron.

[RonParticipant]

Pleased to say that the issue seemed to be with the lower swivel which when reassembled and the adjustable cup properly adjusted now turns smoothly and easily.  Thanks all and now for a new query re front interior windscreen surround.

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